"It'll be great," my friend promised. But at the moment what it was, was uphill - I believe skiing should be a gravity sport. I slung my skis over my shoulder and clomped up the boot pack along with other powder-prospecting enthusiasts. In our waddles, we looked less Downhill Racer than March of the Penguins. After five minutes of trudge, we crowned the hill crest and saw the boundless, seemingly bottomless bowl that defines Blackcomb Glacier. Soon we swooped; S-curves through creamy snowfields that accelerated us into gravity-defying flight.

With above-the-tree-line bowls and top-to-bottom runs that extend 11 kilometres, Whistler Blackcomb offers the most Euro-style skiing and snowboarding in North America. Set in the Coast Range of Canada's British Columbia, the resort encompasses two cheek-to-cheek peaks located 120 kilometres north of Vancouver - a two-hour drive. The bi-mountain behemoth extends over 8,171 skiable acres (3,307 hectares) - more than the US’s Aspen, Vail, and Jackson Hole combined.

Ski-chic clientele runs the gamut: Prince Charles to hip-hopper Queen Latifah and Microsoft mogul Bill Gates to dating duo Justin Timberlake and Cameron Diaz. Whistler Blackcomb's golden moment will come at the Winter Olympics in 2010 when the mountains will host the downhill, slalom, and giant-slalom alpine events as well as the sliding (bobsled, luge, and skeleton) competitions.

The terrain divides into three sectors: top, middle, and bottom. The summits reveal a snowy expanse of ridge crests, chutes, and bowls. Mid-mountain areas summon snow riders to enjoy cruisers, glades, and maniacal mogul fields that test knees and quads to the max. At lower elevations, runs mellow into broad boulevards to bring everyone home to the base village.

With more than 200 trails, 38 lifts (no need to climb unless you're tracking untracked “freshies”), 12 alpine bowls, and four glaciers, the mountains' sheer size can boggle first-timers. For a great introduction to the slopes, visitors can join one of the free mountain tours offered daily at 11:30am. A gracious giant, Whistler Blackcomb proves that bigger can also be better.

The mountains’ offer a number of “one-of-a-kind” experiences: The high-speed Peak Chair on Whistler lifts off to a 360-degree sweep of anything-you-ask terrain, from trees to powder plunges such as Stefan's Chute and Bagel Bowl. Running 11 kilometres from summit to base, the Peak to Creek trail ranks as the longest intermediate cruiser run in North America. Blackcomb Mountain also holds five-kilometre-long Blackcomb Glacier (with a mix of advanced and intermediate descents) and Horstman Glacier (where skiing continues through July for never-say-summer fanatics).

Alternatively, discover your inner Hermann Maier or Janica Kostelic on Whistler Mountain's Dave Murray and Creekside trails, which are the venues for the 2010 Olympic alpine skiing events. Freestylers and snowboarders note: Those competitions will take place at Cypress Mountain on the outskirts of Vancouver.

After a big snow, the upper mountains often open late because of avalanche control. Get into your groove on Big Red Express on Whistler or Jersey Cream Express on Blackcomb, watching for when the ski patrol opens the summit slopes.

“Get in deep” via the new Symphony Express Lift on Whistler Mountain. The high-speed quad accesses a natural amphitheatre with vast bowls that descend to gladed finales - and pow-pow galore.

Temperatures can differ by 20 degrees Celsius from the summit to the village. This variation means that it can be raining cats-and-dogs at the base, and be a powder-hound's dream just 600 meters up-mountain. "If you don't like the weather, head higher or lower," locals recommend.

Intermittent fog - the downside of these top mountains - can be soupy enough to blot riders on the next chair from view. Tree-lined runs help restore a sense of perspective, such as those off Garbanzo Express on Whistler or Solar Coaster Express on Blackcomb.

Tarzan of the Tundra (well, almost). That's how you'll feel when you strap into a harness and soar 335 meters along a slender zipline cable strung across a creek and through ancient rainforest. The high-flying events are offered by Ziptrek Ecotours.

High-energy gathering spots include the outdoor patio at the Longhorn Saloon & Grill (fuel-the-hungry chicken wings and nachos), Black's Pub (serving more than 90 different beers from around the world), and Dubh Linn Gate Irish Pub (Celtic music nightly). An older, more sophisticated crowd settles into Garibaldi Lift Company (GLC) for techno music, signature martinis, and munchies such as the Sex Cheese—four cheeses melted with white wine, lemon, and garlic.

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